Uniform style jackets replace trenchcoat this spring

HAMBURG - While last year’s trenchcoat can still be worn without being seen as completely out of fashion, the trend this spring is towards shorter fitted jackets, particularly in uniform style and the safari look.

“The trenchcoat is not as dominant as last year. There are lots of shorter jackets, particularly in the uniform style,” says Petra Claessens, haute couture designer and president of the German Fashion Institute.

The cut of the new coats tends to be body-hugging. “Wide silhouettes are still there, but they are not as popular,” she says after observing the offerings for the spring collections.

Another fashion expert, Elke Giese, favours mixing styles. “The more unusual the combination the better,” she says.

The new style goes particularly well with the now fashionable gypsy skirts and feminine summer dresses.

“Uniform type jackets are an excellent medium for sportiness, used to moderate the exaggerated ’folksy’ styles,” Giese adds.

She sees typical military jackets of historical cut alongside colonial and safari styles.

“But there will still be a few trenchcoats on the streets,” says Susan Wolf of Hennes & Mauritz in Hamburg. The big retailer has as its favoured line blazer-type jackets, cut hugging the waste.

Alongside these are thin parka-style tops in the collection, carrying a popular item over into the spring from the autumn and winter.

Safari style

Nicola Schleicher, of mail order house Otto in Hamburg says: “The jackets of 2006 will be dominated by the safari style.”

These jackets can best be combined with gentle tunic blouses and ruched skirts, Schleicher believes.

Hugo Boss is going for a blend of military severity and summer playfulness in its jackets and overall collection.

Among the military elements in the Boss range are epaulettes, detailed metal buttons and decorative seams.

These will be worn with “voluminous skirts,” according to the publicity released by the company.

Also in the collection are “safari and khaki style” reminiscent of the colonial era, but now stressing the figure. For the men there are bomber and motorcycle jackets.

The preferred colours this season are the nuanced natural shades of sand, stone and vegetation. Vanilla is popular, along with “white in all its shades.”

The garments will have a particular appearance through being pre- treated to have a washed out look, the fabrics - linen, cotton and wool - contributing to this effect.

“As all these fabrics are washed, the colours will have that slightly washed out look, or sun-bleached,” says Giese.

“The very bright colours of the last two summers are completely out,” she adds.

But Boss will have brighter colours in its more sporty collection, using glowing red and fresh turquoise for garments that mark the 25th anniversary of the legendary British punk rockers, The Clash.

Even the classic men’s jacket is getting a new interpretation. And the bolder women will also find themes harking back to the “Sex and drugs and rock’n’roll” theme.

Apart from rock star designs, there will also be royal symbols, gothic scripts, stylized death heads and metal details.

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