Shimmer punctuates spring makeup, as natural holds its own

HAMBURG - The clear, bright colours of spring appear to have provided makeup artists and designers with inspiration for this year’s seasonal looks.

Unusual combinations of glitz and glimmer are being applied to eyes and lips. At the same time, the trend toward a more natural look is still in the mix, including “nude” makeup tones that give the face a fresh, well-groomed appearance without emphasizing the makeup itself.

“Apart from the natural and discreet daytime makeup, the look for 2006 includes glamour, as was the case in previous years,” said Martin Ruppmann of the German organization representing cosmetic companies in Wiesbaden. “Brilliant colours, lots of shine and wild colour combinations deliver a load of vitality.”

Rouge, a somewhat forgotten element of a well-made-up face, is again playing a role, added Martina Acht, master hairdresser and makeup artist from Offenbach, Germany. “Rouge accents the face and gives it a magical summer-fresh look that we don’t always have at the beginning of the warm-weather season.”

Within boundaries

Indeed, everything - especially when it comes to eye shadow - is within the boundaries this season. Eye makeup is expressive and elegant, as cosmetic companies such as Dior are going beyond the classic pastel tones and venturing into bold combinations.

“You can experiment with colour,” said Dior spokeswoman Christina Sennlaub in Duesseldorf. “Yellow eye shadow applied to the corner of the eye lid or very lightly under the eye brow can look very well.”

Gold, a colour otherwise reserved for the winter holiday season, is found frequently in this year’s spring makeup collection, Ruppmann said. While the French cosmetic company Guerlain promotes eye shadow that combines gold and a light rose colour, Sisley, another French cosmetic company combines gold with violet or khaki. Meanwhile, Shiseido has christened its entire line Golden Kiss, and the gold tones shimmer across eyes, lips and cheeks.

Other colours complete this year’s spring makeup palette. Chanel, inspired by screen goddesses such as Marilyn Monroe, is marketing strawberry tones along with pale green and reviving various lilac colours flowing right down the colour spectrum to chocolate tones.

The collection of colours in the limited time offer Lumieres Magique de Chanel (magic light of Chanel) combine a tender mother-of-pearl rose and fuchsia with a potent orange to create an exciting evening makeup for a gutsy woman.

Reserved looks

Lancome and Revlon are presenting more reserved looks. They are tender and wisp-like in ways that match the current fashion trend toward whites. Shiny pearl nuances represent pure romance. A glimmering nail polish goes well with the look. Revlon offers a tender pink as well as a mother-of-pearl white, following the trend in women’s outerwear.

“And for lips, gloss remains in style,” said Ruppmann. Lips can radiate, shine and, like everything else, shimmer.

“However, the same rule applies when a lot of makeup is used to bring out the eyes, choose a more discreet colour for the lips,” said Annette Kreuels of Lancome.

Acht adds that in the evening a bold red lipstick is acceptable, but it should be matt, not shiny.

An alternative to the glamourous and showy colourful looks is available in hip “nude” makeup lines. Dior spokeswoman Sennlaub said ”nude” does not mean without makeup.

“The ’nude’ makeup consists of pastel skin colours or very modest smoky tones,” Sennlaub said.

Acht added: “The best applications of the makeup leaves the face looking groomed without anyone noticing that the makeup is there.”

New foundations are ideal for the look.

“Foundations in the past often had the consistency of a paste and left the face looking like a mask,” said Acht. These days foundations are liquid and spread better, allowing the natural skin tone to show through evenly, she added.

Clarins recommends its Lisse Minute Base Comblante before applying the foundation. It is designed to fill small wrinkles immediately so the skin looks more even and so that the foundation stays on longer.

“It also helps to ensure that the foundation isn’t spread into the area under the eyes, so that laugh lines are not stressed,” Acht said. Instead, a light concealer is most effective at covering bags under the eyes and the first signs of aging skin.

Pale skin that’s seen little sunlight over the winter can be enlivened with self-tanning products like Shiseido’s Brilliant Bronze Tinted Self-Tanning Gel. Other products such as Exotic Shimmer All Over Highlighting Powder from Estee Lauder or Lancome’s rose or shiny copper powder Petite Boheme also can brighten up the cheeks, arms and decolletage.

Makeup has long become more than just face paint, according to cosmetic company officials.

“For a long time now we have pursued a stronger symbiosis between fashion and beauty,” Sennlaub said.

DPA

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